Buenos Aires Insider
Ten years or so ago, on our first trip to Buenos Aires, we were
greeted at Ezeiza International Airport by Sr. Pedro Baliña and his
hired driver. Strangely enough, neither myself, my partner nor Pedro
recall the exact details of how this meeting had been organized.
Pedro, a Fine Arts professor, would act as our cultural attaché for
the duration of our stay. Although he disapproved of the accommodations
we had chosen in Palermo Soho he kept this to himself, at least for a
day or two. Nearly every morning he would phone and ask what he could
show us, where he could take us and always make suggestions about the
centerpiece of our outings: food. He gave us the lay of the land, shared
some of his favorite museums, introduced us to a few antique dealers
and instructed us on the proper way to order food, coffee, wine and ice
cream in his fair city—really the essentials. On days we elected to
wander the neighborhoods of B.A. independently he warned us about the
“thieves” and “gypsies” that lurked in some doorways. He also tutored us
on the finer points of choosing the right taxi to ensure that we
arrived at our destination un-kidnapped! All in all, by the end of 10
days we felt like we had only scratched the gritty surface of Buenos
Aires, and we were already making plans to return.
Two years later, on Christmas Eve, we returned to B.A., again greeted
at EZE by Sr. Baliña. Just for some context …. Pedro is a
larger-than-life, bear-like figure always dressed neatly in corduroys,
button-down shirts, loafers, sunglasses and usually a fedora. I guess
you’d call it “Porteño preppy.” He swaggers his streets, booms
and bosses his way through cafes, always has an opinion and is never shy
about expressing it. He is descended from a family dating to the 16th
century. Maybe this explains the swagger. He is also generous with his
time, knowledgeable about all subjects historical and cultural, and kind
and caring.
We have now visited Buenos Aires a total of four times. Each trip we
carve out time to be with Sr. Baliña. He has been instrumental in
peeling back the layers of B.A. for us like an onion. One visit to Bs.
As. centered around the celebration of a friend’s 60th
birthday. A flurry of pre-arrival planning and logistics emails resulted
in our hotel rooms filled with flowers (white and fragrant varieties
only), artisanal chocolates and Argentine wines (based on each guest’s
preference). He was a maniac with the details, the right man for the
job. This guy could handle any A-list diva’s demands.
Because of Pedro, we have seen things and shared experiences that
most travelers only dream of. We have visited the studio of the famous
Argentine photographer Aldo Sessa, been invited for sherry with an
elegant Argentine lady at her Embassy Row penthouse loaded with
museum-quality antiques and Fortuny-upholstered walls, ridden horses
with gauchos in the Pampas, eaten mountains of bife de chorizo steak, wrapped ourselves in his family’s heirloom ponchos at an estancia,
purchased paintings at a small auction house, watched a family of
silversmiths fashion a cymbidium orchid of pure sterling and lunched in
the hushed dining room at the very exclusive, very private Jockey Club
de Buenos Aires. We have peeked behind the curtain of this extraordinary
city.
The sum of the days we’ve spent in B.A. over the years, thanks to our
lovely friend and cultural attaché, are the stuff that travel memories,
journals and photo albums are made of. We remain grateful that whenever
and wherever we travel we’ve been fortunate to cultivate lasting
relationships like the one we’ve forged with Sr. Baliña. Returning to
Buenos Aires and getting reacquainted with this city, and of course
Pedro, is on our short list for 2012.
Not to miss:
- Barrio San Telmo’s Sunday Antique Market (and freak show)
- Retiro Railway Station, a cast iron Frenchy/Edwardian architectural confection
- Bife de lomo (filet mignon) or bife de chorizo (rump steak) salted liberally and grilled
- A stroll through Plaza San Martin
- Exploring the fashion and design stores that thrive in Palermo Soho
- Savoring dulce de leche anything
- Crossing the River Plate on a ferry to visit Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay—maybe the laziest and prettiest little colonial town in South America
Fuente: www.wisecrackerluggage.com
